I actually think that the diamond and brown rods could be the basic system with the fine and ultra fine stones being added options. TriAngle stones are 7"x.5" (178mm x 13mm). The diamond stone is actually steel triangle rod with diamond … Thanks for the great review! These steel triangles are blanketed in a bonding agent then covered in diamond particles. Sold in a pair. Diamond hard abrasives are recommended when you wish to remove stock, for restoration purposes and to aggressively re-shape, re-bevel and re-profile a cutting edge. The brown is medium grit while the white is fine grit. Normally they are add on. I have the SM with a set of diamond rods added. Easy to Use. Diamond is much easier to work M390 with but 400 grit is way too much even with light pressure. I am not sure if you have these diamond stones in your set, John. This item is designed for use with the Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker. The relevance here in this thread: as above, it COULD be a valid approach to try to use your diamond, CBN, or (in my case) aftermarket SiC stones like the MoldMaster, to do your apexing, and then use the Spyderco F or UF ceramic rods … Sal jumped in later in the thread and recommended Cliff's approach. The Spyderco Sharpmaker is incredibly simple to use. I am hopping the "fine" diamond … On a recent elk hunting/camping trip I threw the diamond and brown rods in the sharpmaker … However, this would make the sharpmaker an expensive item. My choice of steels leans to M390 and D2. The standard Sharpmaker 204 comes with just 2 sets of alumina ceramic stones. If you can handhold a knife at a 90-degree angle, then you can use the Sharpener.Basically, you put the base on a strong flat surface, put the rods into the base, hold your knife vertical to the floor, and run the edge of the knife up and down the rods…